Exquisite solitude greets those who visit Florence, where a life truly without worry is more than possible. (Photo by Cacophony.)

By Brianna Kietzman

Our cottage Sans Souci, which means “without worry” in French, sat nestled on the side of a high hill on the north edge of Florence on a huge, private plot surrounded entirely by trees, but with ocean views on two sides. The twisting, mile-long drive from main road to cottage crept through the fern-carpeted grounds and moss-covered trees of West Coast rainforest that sometimes arched so far over the roadway that they blocked all of the sun’s rays from shining through. On the days we elected to take the drive up US 101, we marveled at the rugged cliffs and flat beaches, one after the other, as if each portion was both part of a frame for its neighbor and the focal point of its own masterpiece. Walking the wet sand, we were amazed by the surreal seclusion. The ocean was angry and thundering, sweeping across the wide beaches with so much force that it could push the salty water 50 yards inland at a depth of just a few inches, while everything else around it calmly conformed. We had miles of coastline to ourselves; the dogs ran wild and free, and my husband and I happily opted to go barefoot as we examined the treasures left behind by the surf and tried to breathe in the beauty of the scene.

A handful of small towns dot the Oregon Coast Scenic Byway, and Florence, conveniently located just a beautiful hour’s drive west of Eugene, is one of the larger of these towns, with a population of around 8,500. Along the Siuslaw River is a cute Old Town district with a variety of quaint shops and restaurants, and where I worked for a few hours one afternoon at Siuslaw River Coffee Roasters. Its staff was friendly and the surrounding environment lovely, with seating indoors as well as out on the river and apparently pretty fantastic coffee. I ordered an herbal tea, but I overheard half a dozen folks commenting on how delicious the joe was. Another notable Florence highlight was the abundance of quality thrift shops. Every couple of blocks, a large second-hand store had planted itself there, full of fabulous finds and great prices that were absolutely worth popping into for a few minutes if for no other reason than to ogle toys we hadn’t seen for 20 years and vintage home goods that we had no place for. By the time we departed, we were counting the Oregon Coast among our most highly recommended US destinations. It’s no surprise though that we hadn’t heard people raving about the region as a must-see before, since the unencumbered peace, genuineness, and solitude found in an area not yet overridden with tourists was part of the appeal that we couldn’t have appreciated more.

Brianna Kietzman is driving the Americas with her husband and two dogs. More of her writings can be found at vangabonds.com.

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